Reflections on the Road
It has been a while since I posted something on this blog. Trust me, the hiatus has nothing to do with that mythical invisible troll of laziness that some like to sexily call "writers block", it is simply because I have been traversing the country with such regularity and wild abandon enough to make the great Marco Polo turn in his grave and give me a mummified thumbs up. The past two months have seen me travel to Mansa, a trip most memorable for the roasted goat meat I had the privilege of eating along the pedicle road.You know the pedicle road, that stretch of road through Congo DR between Mufulira and Chembe that almost threatens to cut Zambia into two.
Damn, those little pieces of meat are tasty! In fact so tasty that my colleagues and I didn't care when someone hinted that they just could be dog meat "this is DR Congo after-all", they cynically added. To which we replied with a belch and a look that says " I really don't care what this is, it tastes great and that is all that matters".
As soon as we got to Mansa and found lodging, we put in motion plans to head to Samfya the following day, hardly noticing that the entire town of Mansa had dimmed lights , thanks to the country's power deficit.
The lack of power though couldn't dampen our spirits once we had sight of the pristine beauty of Samfya beach which was both captivating and depressing. Not helped by a fast talking local politician who managed to get himself into a rather frenzied and emotionally charged debate with my mate and colleague Brian. One of the themes of their debate being the viability of a mineral water plant just by the shores of Lake Bangweulu, an idea that Brian believed was ill-advised (to put it mildly), the same which was rather vociferously defended by the politician to the extent of claiming that it was the only way to transform the area. By the time we were leaving the two were no closer to reaching consensus than when they began, not helped by a size-able quantity of alcohol consumed by both. The only commonality being the empty beer bottles strewn all over the place. ( Did I mention that this politician had one of the acutest conditions of the "L" "R" syndrome you will ever encounter?,,, thought so)
Two weeks later we were bounding on our way to the Northwestern province, this time via Kaoma/Lukulu turnoff. But not before we had gorged ourselves on chicken pieces sold at Nalusanga, just before you enter the game management area. It is a route that would take us through the sandy terrain of Lukulu, the well watered rather marshy fringes of the Kabompo river, across the Kabompo river using the pontoon and onto Zambezi district. It was my second time being in Zambezi district and this time I made it a personal mission to enjoy what it had to offer such as a canoe ride across the Zambezi river.
The following day we traveled to Chavuma near Zambia's border with Angola, stood and meditated by the rocky banks of the Zambezi at the place that gave birth to the name Chavuma. Legend has it that in years before, when the mighty Zambezi would flow in its unabated pomp, a "vooming"noise would be heard emanating from that point of the river leaving the locals with little choice but to name the place Chavuma.
Two days later we retraced our steps, except this time to Kasempa where we then left for Lusaka via a gravel road cutting right through the Kafue National Park. A route that took us across two rivers, the Lunga and Kafue before we reached Mumbwa where we had a meal and headed back to Lusaka.
Through out these trips, a certain theme seemed to have been established among our conversations. It was a concession of sorts, not so much a realisation but a verification of a truth that we all know and have read about countless times. The fact that the reasons for Zambia's poverty have to lie elsewhere and have nothing to do with the country's natural endowment, Indeed you only have to look at this beautiful country to come to the conclusion that we have been more than abundantly blessed with some of the best land, the best rivers and generally the best natural resources anywhere.
Perhaps that is the reason a good number of people have sought explanations from the spiritual realm. How is that working I wonder? Isn't this the year that Dr Kenneth Kaunda, looking worse for wear I must admit, and reminding me of Master Oogway from Kungfu Panda, declared Zambia free from all curses and allied spiritual impediments. Didn't he tear down strongholds (whatever these are) and basically didn't hold back in pronouncing all manner of blessings on Zambia?
I just wish he could have done more than rain well stringed blessings on the country, not least because he had had 27 years in which to transform this country. He than most had the perfect opportunity and time to move the country away from its over-dependence on copper. The stars were well aligned in his favour. For example, he had no third-terms to worry about, no re-election inspired sleepless nights and certainly a close to 100% acceptance rating owing to having no opposition at all. He was a god basically, whose every word was law.
Unfortunately the many Christians who hailed Dr Kaunda's blessings and the attendant lavish editorials praising the man, failed to take any of that into account. Whether this was a case of selective amnesia or the usual cut and paste journalism we've come to expect from journalists, its for them to answer.
I do know one thing though. This country wont be developed through the sickeningly monotonous political rhetoric, often displayed through speeches and tasteless pomp and ceremony or its cousin the annoyingly insipid radio phone-in programmes were callers try to talk each other down. It will never develop through sermons delivered with hoarse voices accompanied by psychological sessions that purport to predict the future, or the uttering of a few magic phrases.
Only when each one of us takes up the mantle and brightens the corner in which they are,
How can one be so poor in a land of plenty. I despair!
Damn, those little pieces of meat are tasty! In fact so tasty that my colleagues and I didn't care when someone hinted that they just could be dog meat "this is DR Congo after-all", they cynically added. To which we replied with a belch and a look that says " I really don't care what this is, it tastes great and that is all that matters".
As soon as we got to Mansa and found lodging, we put in motion plans to head to Samfya the following day, hardly noticing that the entire town of Mansa had dimmed lights , thanks to the country's power deficit.
The lack of power though couldn't dampen our spirits once we had sight of the pristine beauty of Samfya beach which was both captivating and depressing. Not helped by a fast talking local politician who managed to get himself into a rather frenzied and emotionally charged debate with my mate and colleague Brian. One of the themes of their debate being the viability of a mineral water plant just by the shores of Lake Bangweulu, an idea that Brian believed was ill-advised (to put it mildly), the same which was rather vociferously defended by the politician to the extent of claiming that it was the only way to transform the area. By the time we were leaving the two were no closer to reaching consensus than when they began, not helped by a size-able quantity of alcohol consumed by both. The only commonality being the empty beer bottles strewn all over the place. ( Did I mention that this politician had one of the acutest conditions of the "L" "R" syndrome you will ever encounter?,,, thought so)
Two weeks later we were bounding on our way to the Northwestern province, this time via Kaoma/Lukulu turnoff. But not before we had gorged ourselves on chicken pieces sold at Nalusanga, just before you enter the game management area. It is a route that would take us through the sandy terrain of Lukulu, the well watered rather marshy fringes of the Kabompo river, across the Kabompo river using the pontoon and onto Zambezi district. It was my second time being in Zambezi district and this time I made it a personal mission to enjoy what it had to offer such as a canoe ride across the Zambezi river.
The following day we traveled to Chavuma near Zambia's border with Angola, stood and meditated by the rocky banks of the Zambezi at the place that gave birth to the name Chavuma. Legend has it that in years before, when the mighty Zambezi would flow in its unabated pomp, a "vooming"noise would be heard emanating from that point of the river leaving the locals with little choice but to name the place Chavuma.
Two days later we retraced our steps, except this time to Kasempa where we then left for Lusaka via a gravel road cutting right through the Kafue National Park. A route that took us across two rivers, the Lunga and Kafue before we reached Mumbwa where we had a meal and headed back to Lusaka.
Through out these trips, a certain theme seemed to have been established among our conversations. It was a concession of sorts, not so much a realisation but a verification of a truth that we all know and have read about countless times. The fact that the reasons for Zambia's poverty have to lie elsewhere and have nothing to do with the country's natural endowment, Indeed you only have to look at this beautiful country to come to the conclusion that we have been more than abundantly blessed with some of the best land, the best rivers and generally the best natural resources anywhere.
Perhaps that is the reason a good number of people have sought explanations from the spiritual realm. How is that working I wonder? Isn't this the year that Dr Kenneth Kaunda, looking worse for wear I must admit, and reminding me of Master Oogway from Kungfu Panda, declared Zambia free from all curses and allied spiritual impediments. Didn't he tear down strongholds (whatever these are) and basically didn't hold back in pronouncing all manner of blessings on Zambia?
I just wish he could have done more than rain well stringed blessings on the country, not least because he had had 27 years in which to transform this country. He than most had the perfect opportunity and time to move the country away from its over-dependence on copper. The stars were well aligned in his favour. For example, he had no third-terms to worry about, no re-election inspired sleepless nights and certainly a close to 100% acceptance rating owing to having no opposition at all. He was a god basically, whose every word was law.
Unfortunately the many Christians who hailed Dr Kaunda's blessings and the attendant lavish editorials praising the man, failed to take any of that into account. Whether this was a case of selective amnesia or the usual cut and paste journalism we've come to expect from journalists, its for them to answer.
I do know one thing though. This country wont be developed through the sickeningly monotonous political rhetoric, often displayed through speeches and tasteless pomp and ceremony or its cousin the annoyingly insipid radio phone-in programmes were callers try to talk each other down. It will never develop through sermons delivered with hoarse voices accompanied by psychological sessions that purport to predict the future, or the uttering of a few magic phrases.
Only when each one of us takes up the mantle and brightens the corner in which they are,
How can one be so poor in a land of plenty. I despair!
Nice piece KHH. Zambia will only develop once you and I who have the education, exposure and money begin to invest in our own country. It is ridiculous for us to be importing fish giving all the water we have including those you were standing. I honestly think that at an individual level we can make a difference other than the taxes we contribute to the government. Fish farming for instance is simple and straight forward. What about goat rearing in Kayuni (try the Boer goat)? What about revamping your Chicken project you had started in Chongwe and growing it into a big venture?
ReplyDeleteThanks Anonymous. I have actually made serious strides in beginning fish farming in Kayuni. I need to research on the Boer Goat and would appreciate it if you gave me more information. You have challenged me in a nice way and yes, its time to do something. I had re-ignited the village chicken business early this year but it didn't go as planned. Indeed together we can make a difference.
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